Amarone vs Chianti

Okay, maybe not a fair comparison, since they are such hugely different wines -- Chianti being relatively easy drinking and inexpensive, while the same can certainly not be said for Amarone -- a Chianti typically costs about 1/3 the price.  We also discovered that with Amarone you get what you pay for -- the cheaper bottles just aren't worth it.  Thus it's unlikely I will ever purchase another Amarone.  You'll see from the comments below that several other members also found them to be too expensive and too Port-like.  Although an Amarone came out on top in the tastings -- IMO it wasn't worth the $75.  On the plus side, this made for a lively discussion, given the marked disagreement amongst us.

The cult wine

A dry red wine from Italy's Valpolicella district, near Verona, Amarone has apparently something of a cult following.  Made from pressed dried grapes, the wine has an incredible intensity, and usually a fairly high alcohol content that reach 15% to 17%.  The wine making process is ancient, whereby select bunches of grapes are harvested at the end of September or the beginning of October, and then stored on bamboo racks under a roof out of the rain until about mid-January, with the exact drying time varying from producer to producer. The traditional blend of grapes includes Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

During the drying period, the grapes lose 35% to 40% of their original weight. Dehydration enhances flavor and concentrates the sugar content. Some of the grapes undergo a bit of "noble rot", which gives the wine the illusion of sweetness. After the grapes are pressed, they are fermented until the wine is dry. It's a two-step process involving both a cool and a warm fermentation. The wine then is aged for up to three years in large wooden casks.  Given this intensive process, the wines tend to be pretty pricey.

No way baby!

A less expensive alternative is "baby Amarone" or Ripasso. The term means "repassed" in Italian. It is a method that adds oomph to Valpolicella, a table wine known for its agreeable, light personality.  The skins from Amarone wines, after the grapes have finished fermentation, are added to simple Valpolicella. The skins are kept in contact with the wine for about 10 or 15 days, boosting color, tannin and flavor. 

In keeping with the theme of you get what you pay for -- none of us liked the Ripasso.  They tasted like cheap fortified wine!

La Bella Noche

Tannis and Rick did a fabulous job of setting the scene for our Italiano al fresco evening.  We were fortunate with a warm Vancouver night and had a sumputous array of Italian dishes.  They barbequed a yummy peppered sirloin.  Other dishes included melon wrapped prosciutto, Italian cheeses and salami, bocconcini salad, tortellini, several varieties of "French" breads, and a heavenly Tiramisu.

TGIF

Thank goodness we moved the meetings to Fridays, as we had 12 bottles of wine to taste. The ranking is as follows:

• Zenato Amarone, 1998, 14.5% alcohol, cost $75 - hands down everyone's favorite.  Described as "kicks you in the ass", huge taste, and fabulous.  Though note the age -- lesson for the night is that age does matter and that you need to lay a good wine down
• Farnese Opis Montepulciano, 2000, 14% alcohol, $29 - intense aubergine color.  Delicious Tuscan wine, with a bit of menthol and dark plum on the nose.  Blue Cheese would be a good accompaniment.
• Amarone de Bolla del Valpolicella, 1999, $28 (in Calgary) - smoky nose, though the bouquet is a bit baffling -- somewhat like the smells eminating from Harrison Hot Springs.  Was chewy, not overly sweet, and hot on the finish.  Described as a wine that you would savour and not "toss back".
• (tied with #3) Tommasi Amore della Valpolicella, 2000, $56 - nicest nost of them all, spicy finish but a bit bitter, would recommend this with spicy South Indian curry.  A "hang-over wine" (can't consume very much of this!)
• Amarone Cantina di Negrar Valpolicella, 2001, 14.5% alcohol, $25 - raisin nose, very heavy and concentrated.  Too sweet, not enough tannins, almost prune-like.  Rich and juicy on the mouth.  Like the Tommasi, you can't drink very much of this.
• Amarone Masi Costera, 2000, 15% alcohol, $42 - described as "Amarone for dummies" is less sweet and more drinkable -- not a typical Amarone.  Is flater, less flavorful, and less complex -- more accessible for the North American market. 
• Chianti Renzo Masi, 2003, 12.5% alcohol, $15 - good value for the price, deep ruby color, jammy and quite tannic.
• Tomassi Valpolicella Ripasso, 2001, 13% alcohol, $29 - a "baby Amarone", the wine had an astrigent/pungent nose.  It was too sweet on the palate and almost tasted like a fortified wine -- tasted like raisins.  Was very dry and very rich!
• Chianti il Grigio da San Felice, 13% alcohol, 2001 Reserva, $30, short finish, no complexity, sharp/searing upfront
• Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti, 2002, 12.5% alcohol, $21 - long legs, tart, a bit thin/short finish, spicy on the end
• Palazzo Altesi, 1999, 13.5% alcohol, $60 - this wine provoked the most heated discussion of the evening.  Most (though not all) of us thought the wine was corked.  The nose was over poweringly musty/Port-like (even for an Amarone).  It tasted okay, but we couldn't get past the aroma.  Color was deep ruby/brown.  Given the good reviews I found online for the wine, I have to assume that the wine was indeed off :(

NOTE: I apologize for the lack of many links for the wines, but most of the sites are in Italian!  I can link to more photos of the group.  See my flickr site.

<blush>I see I haven't done a posting for July's tasting on Pinot Gris.  Stay tuned...

Comments

[Dave in Seoul]

I have discovered something very interesting about the Italian wines, especially the Tommasi Amarone and Ripasso. On the day that I opened them, I found them VERY disappointing and only had one glass. However, the next evening, after the wines, both of them, had had an opportunity to unfold, to open up, they were exquisite. They are complex wines that need time to reveal themselves. I have found this pretty true with other Italian wines but more so with the Amarone and Ripasso. My friend back in Virginia found the same to be true.

[LLP]

Thanks for the advice Dave. That would be definately something I'll try next time I have an Amarone. We've now started to speed up the decanting process for our reds by pouring all the wine out of the bottle and then back into it in hopes that the aeration will help :) I hope we have a Barolo night sometime this summer.